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Step 1 |
Slide the new tips into
place. The HS tip is now a bit long since we trimmed off about 3/4"
of the skin. You will want to just trim enough to allow the elevator to
swing to the trail position so leave a little for final adjustment. |
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Step 2 |
The elevator tip is roughly
positioned. Due to the shape of the lead counter-weight (and you don't
want to trim too much off of the lead), the tip fiberglass is now a
little too wide to match the outter mold line of the counter-balance arm
skin. |
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Step 3 |
Solution to the tip width
is to carefully sand the interior of the it so it will lay flush with the
counter-balance skin. |
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Step 4 |
Here's the HS tip being
spread a bit. I cut a piece of glass-coated foam to shape and used to
carefully spread the HS tip. Then use a heat gun to relieve stress on
the tip. Over time, and a with a little heat, you can reshape some of
these things. The foam is only temporary so it comes out when the
aft plug is added. |
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Step 5 |
Now we have the tips
roughly the right shape so I epoxied 1/2" strips of .020 AL to the
tips to serve as reinforcement for blind rivets. |
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Step 6 |
Now the fun
part. Blind rivet the elevator tip to the elevator. Some minor sanding
and adjustment may be needed to fit into the trailing edge. After
fitting, I cautiously apply some heat with a heat gun to basically set
the fiberglass, than rivet. |
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Step 7 |
This is the
front of the tip after riveting. Note the overhang on the counterweight.
This will be fixed with patience and good 'ol West System epoxy and
fairing filler. |
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Step 8 |
Goop on some
West System epoxy fairing filler. I've been using the West System 105
Epoxy and the 205 Hardener. This is a quicker setting hardener and works
well when the temps start going down. Then mix in the 410 Microlight
Fairing Filler. This is a lightweight fairing filler that mixes to the
consistency of peanut butter and sands very well. Good Stuff! |
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Step 9 |
Sand as
required. I'm using 100 grit for starters, then going with 220 and
finishing with 400. Makes for a smooth finish. |
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Step 10 |
After the
basic shape was done, I added a couple layers of light glass cloth for a
little strength to tie the sides together. |
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Step 11 |
Now sand as
necessary again and fill, sand, fill, sand until you're done. |
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Step 12 |
Back to the
Horizontal Stab tips. I cut two fillers out of glassed 1/4" foam. A
scrap can be seen in the foreground. Cut to fit, then epoxy to the
interior of the HS tips. I added a couple light layers of glass on the
interior. |
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Step 13 |
Sand to fit as
necessary. This can take some time and patience again. |
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Step 14 |
When the fit
is adequate, do the blind riveting thing again. |
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Step 15 |
Use the trusty
West System again to fill the join lines and the blind rivets, then take
a finger and fill the small gap on the aft side. |
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Step 16 |
Tips have been
primed with PPG DP epoxy primer and are ready for storage. I'm going to
keep the interior of the counter-balance open as well as the interior of
the HS. I figure this will help with drainage and inspections. |
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Step 17 |
After priming,
there's some minor filling yet to be done but that will get completed
during finish paint. |
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Step 18 |
Tips pretty
much done! Just prior to final painting, there's some minor sanding and
filling but it's 99% complete. |
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